Category: Uncategorized

  • Lalande-Pomerol Shows Itself Off With a Pretty Flower

    Lalande-Pomerol Shows Itself Off With a Pretty Flower

    “Lalande-Pomerol is a jewel of Bordeaux’s Right Bank, a rich and deep wine of great finesse.” – James Suckling, American wine critic.

    This is a pure Merlot, from a richly diverse terroir of sandy and gravelly soils. The vineyard is planted mainly with Merlot (80 to 85%), the rest being Cabernet Franc.

    Let’s taste it:

    A balanced robe, a flamboyant red with lovely chocolatey edges.

    A powerful nose, and that complex aroma of damp wood reminds me of long walks out in nature. It quickly comes back to remind you to watch out for those 14.5%.

    A discreet length, but one that wakes up and slowly asserts itself after it has passed.

    The balanced taste is nonetheless very particular. It may not please everyone, because it’s flat at the start, like a hollow — a dead moment in the script of the aromas — and it struggles to assert its character; then a touch of acidity soon appears.

    That sharpness, a little too present at the start to my mind, later leaves a long (very long) and pleasant taste. That’s what I liked about this wine: the length and the persistence of the tannins. My palate is still full of it as I write this article.

    This 2020 did suffer from its youth, though, giving off a nose marked by the alcohol that limits its expression. So you’ll have to wait a little longer to enjoy it fully and see Lalande at its best.

  • Luxembourg Doesn’t Have the Sun, But…

    Luxembourg Doesn’t Have the Sun, But…

    “The wines of Schengen bear witness to the history and passion of Luxembourg’s winegrowers — elegant, refined wines that deserve to be discovered.” – Bettane & Desseauve

    Considered one of the most renowned terroirs of the Luxembourg Moselle, the majestic Felsberg hill makes for a lovely day out.

    It overlooks Wintrange, a small winegrowing village of 400 souls not far from Schengen. It’s here, on the slopes of the Felsberg, that Frank Schumacher tends the vine.

    I had the chance to take part in an open day at the property, offering every enthusiast a memorable tasting. In the company of friends, I had the privilege of discovering a rich (very rich) catalogue, full of little gems. Like its wines, the place is beautiful and pleasant, well suited to tasting:

    I’m telling you here about the Pinot Blanc, but other references will be added to the tastings soon. The catalogue of wines produced by this family impressed me. Impressed, because I’m not used to seeing this: I counted more than 60 references available on the list, all produced locally by this family. Granted, several vintages help fill out the catalogue — but even so, it isn’t common to produce that much with so few people.

    During this tasting I was able to try a good number of wines, and all were good, some of them very good.

    Here’s the link to the cellar, with a shop for ordering too — see for yourself…: https://www.schumacher-knepper.lu/index.php/fr/

    On to the tasting:

    Naturally you’ll need to chill it a little before tasting. Unlike its cousin the Pinot Gris, this Pinot Blanc is a touch drier — yet this white will upend that assumption, and you’ll sense it right from the start with its fruity nose.

    On the palate it’s extraordinarily balanced and soft; very fruity, you’ll barely detect the touch of acidity at the end. Length isn’t its strong point, though — which rather invites you to pour another straight away.

    Personally (and I’m not the only one), I love it with cheese or as an aperitif — which is why my cellar will never be without it again.

  • Sipping Wine in an Old London Cellar

    Sipping Wine in an Old London Cellar

    The English-style wine bar:

    Gordon’s Wine Bar with friends! ©Jean-Sebastien

    The rain came along to disrupt this visit, unfortunately making the cellars (see photo above) inaccessible because of roadworks in the street.

    I do recommend the place: the cellar oozes authenticity in the way only the English know how. The wine we chose and what came with it made for a thoroughly pleasant moment — the presence of friends had a lot to do with it, since London rain is inseparable from the myth!

    I wanted to try a Rioja again, to confirm that this appellation is consistent in its quality. So we tasted a Real Rubio Gran Reserva 2010.

    A nose of vanilla and wood, a palate of lovely red fruit with powerful but balanced tannins.

    A supple, persistent length lifted by a touch of acidity that quickly fades to make way for the fruit.

    We enjoyed the wine, even if some of my friends found the tannins too strong.

    I’ll add one small reservation about the venue, though. Its authenticity is beyond question, and the wine list is rich, carefully put together and affordable. Look closely at that list, however, and you’ll be a little disappointed by the lack of local wines — indeed, among more than 100 listings I found only a single English wine! And yes, there are wines Made in Britain! A few nice articles on the subject:

    https://avis-vin.lefigaro.fr/magazine-vin/o30370-la-voie-royale-des-vins-anglais

    http://www.le-vin-pour-les-nuls.com/six-vins-anglais/

    I’ll also share a nice article about the place:

    A couple of our favorite evenings have been spent in London’s oldest wine bar. We have been twice with friends and family, and each time has lead to …

    Sipping wine in an old London cellar
  • The Go-Anywhere Côtes du Rhône

    The Go-Anywhere Côtes du Rhône

    “Côtes du Rhône is the south in a glass, the garrigue in a nose, the sun in a colour, conviviality in a taste.” – Bernard Pivot

    I know what you’re going to say: “an article about a Côtes du Rhône”!

    And there it is, the magic of preconceptions at work — but you should be starting to know that every appellation in the world has its gem.

    This wine doesn’t come from just anyone: the E. Guigal house! As you’ll see, this house will be a regular in these posts.

    Fancy a red for the aperitif? To go with a dish, a meat, a quiche, a cheese? It’s my go-anywhere wine; it accompanies all my little preparations, eyes closed.

    E. Guigal’s Côtes du Rhône is a blend of several grape varieties, including Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre.

    A dark but very balanced robe; right from the start the spices come and tickle your nose. This lovely wine makes eyes at you and invites you to taste.

    On the palate, as on the nose, the spices are quickly present but soon make way for a second aroma of red fruit — though they don’t go far, because through the length they’ll come back to remind you they’re there.

    At a price under €10, this wine is a classic you absolutely must own.

  • E. Guigal Propels Saint-Joseph Among the Greatest

    E. Guigal Propels Saint-Joseph Among the Greatest

    “Saint-Joseph is one of the finest jewels of the Rhône vineyard, a powerful and generous wine that expresses the richness of its terroir with great finesse.” – Robert Parker

    The Guigal house is one of the most famous and respected producers in the Rhône Valley, in France. Founded in 1946 by Etienne Guigal, the house is today run by his son, Marcel Guigal, and his grandson, Philippe Guigal.

    The Guigal house produces a wide variety of Rhône Valley wines, from whites to reds, taking in rosés. Its vineyards are located in the most prestigious appellations of the Rhône Valley, notably Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage, Saint-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, Condrieu and Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

    Today I’ve decided to tell you about the Saint-Joseph. But I’ll certainly tell you about many others, because this house is exceptional.

    This Guigal is special because it was one of the first “Saint-Josephs” I had the chance to taste. Why is it so special? Certainly because that day I was surrounded by my loved ones around a good table. It took no more than that for it to stay etched in my memory forever.

    I often say it to those who join me: “the best of wines is the one I drink with you”!

    Off we go to the tasting

    It’s produced from Syrah grapes and is characterised by its aromas of red fruit and spice.

    Its robe is silky and elegant, with a delicate scent.

    On the palate it’s very balanced, with a persistent length, for this 2019 that served as my benchmark. We’re going to let it age a little longer and we’ll see in a few years, but I’m not too worried about the outcome — it will wait for us too.

    And for those who’ve read to the end: no, I haven’t made a mistake — I am indeed talking about the Saint-Joseph Rouge, because it also exists in white, made from Marsanne and Roussanne grapes. I hope to taste it soon and tell you about it.

  • This Pinot Gris Is MAGNIFICENT!

    This Pinot Gris Is MAGNIFICENT!

    Domaines Vinsmoselle is a wine producer located on the border between France, Luxembourg and Germany. The estate is on the Luxembourg side of the Moselle. Here we are again near Remich.

    Domaines Vinsmoselle produce a wide variety of wines, from dry white to full-bodied red, taking in sparkling and dessert wines. The wines are produced from grapes grown on the steep slopes that line the Moselle river. The region’s unique terroir, characterised by slate-rich soils and optimal sun exposure, gives the wines a distinctive and complex character.

    I’m always amazed by the richness of their catalogue: with some 200 winegrowers tending the vine along the Moselle between Wasserbillig and Schengen — on almost two-thirds of Luxembourg’s arable land — this cooperative is the Grand Duchy’s largest producer of wine and crémant.

    The estate also offers guided tours of its cellars and vineyards, as well as wine tastings. You can learn more about the winemaking techniques used by the estate, and about the history of the Moselle wine region. Book here.

    On to the tasting

    What struck me about this wine was, above all, the first look. With this slender, elongated 50 cl bottle, the estate wants to impress us and assert its elegance. We’re dealing with an exceptional nectar, and we’re being told so.

    The Pinot Gris Vendanges Tardives has a deep, brilliant golden robe; its colour is extraordinary, the gold shining a thousand lights.

    With an intense, complex nose of honey and spice, you could smell it for hours; with that robe I didn’t want to deprive the glass of contents of such beauty.

    On the palate, the wine is rich and round, with a perceptible sweetness well balanced by a lively acidity that brings lovely freshness. At a price of around €25 for 50 cl of this brew, every drop counts.

  • Valentine and His White…

    Valentine and His White…

    Nothing like a nice little white for Valentine’s Day.

    Pinot Gris is a great local pride for Alsace, but I’m interested in another region where “Pinot Gris”, “Pinot Blanc” and the likes of “Riesling” or “Gewurztraminer” reign supreme: Schengen and the Luxembourg Moselle.

    Schengen, Schengen? That must ring a bell, no?

    A little history, but no Schengen:

    The Caves Saint Martin are a winegrowing cooperative located in Remich, a small town on the banks of the Moselle, in eastern Luxembourg. Founded in 1919, the cooperative aims to promote winegrowing and the production of high-quality wine in the region.

    The Caves Saint Martin also have a historic cellar dating from 1872. This cellar was built by the Benedictine monks of the Saint-Maurice abbey, in Switzerland, who stored their wine there for many years. You can visit it while listening to stories from the past, glass in hand.

    On to the tasting:

    Naturally, there’s no need to tell you that an hour or so in the fridge before serving will make it all the more pleasant.

    The colour of this Pinot Gris is a crystalline white, of a hypnotic purity — you feel you’re admiring mountain water!

    The nose is light and balanced, almost mineral; you start to think this Pinot Gris is more akin to a dry variety.

    On the palate, citrus and a light acidity come first, then a slight prickle appears on the palate — you’d swear you detect tiny bubbles — but very quickly the fruit and the citrus emerge. Its length turns refreshing.

    I particularly enjoyed this wine with cheese; the pairing lifted both partners.

    At a price of around €10, the value for money is unbeatable — especially if you take the opportunity to tour the cellars.

  • The Wonderful Blend of South Africa and the Médoc…

    The Wonderful Blend of South Africa and the Médoc…

    The Rothschild empire couldn’t resist the call of African soil — and I understand them.

    It’s very surprising to see Listrac and South Africa on the same label; it’s a little disconcerting.

    Label aside, you’ll have gathered that I enjoyed this wine — though make no mistake, there’s little of Listrac in this bottle.

    A little history:

    The Rupert & Rothschild vineyard was created in 1997 by two renowned families, the Ruperts of South Africa and the Rothschilds of France.

    The Rupert & Rothschild vineyard covers 100 hectares of vines. The varieties grown are mainly Bordeaux ones, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

    The estate is equipped with a modern cellar, where the grapes are vinified and aged for 18 months in French oak barrels before bottling.

    Since its creation, the Rupert & Rothschild Classique has become one of the estate’s most famous wines, as well as a symbol of winemaking excellence in South Africa.

    On to the tasting:

    The nose is discreet and the robe fairly pronounced. On the palate it’s pleasant and, just as the nose had signalled, it’s light with barely pronounced tannins. It’s only after it has passed that this wine reminds you of its origins, leaving a stronger scent in the mouth. But you’ll have to be quick, because it slips away fast.

    This 2018 will have to stay in the cellar a little longer, unfortunately, because its youth made itself known.

  • The Lilian Mystery…

    The Lilian Mystery…

    I have to confess something: I hesitated for a long time before writing this post. This wine, you see, made me doubt my ability to grasp all its subtleties.

    Let’s start with a little history:

    The Lilian Ladouys vineyard was founded in the 18th century. Over the years, the estate has had several owners and undergone many transformations, but it has always been recognised for the quality of its wines.

    In 2008, the Lilian Ladouys vineyard was acquired by the Lorenzetti family, owners of the prestigious Château Pédesclaux in Pauillac. Since then, significant investment has been made to modernise the facilities and improve the quality of the wines that run across the property’s 47 hectares.

    The Lilian Ladouys 2018 is a red wine from the Saint-Estèphe area, in the Médoc in Bordeaux. It’s produced from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, and was aged in oak barrels for around 12 months.

    Now that the introductions are done, on to the tasting:

    I found this wine very hard to understand; on the first glass I was surprised, because it isn’t like the Saint-Estèphes I’d tasted in the past. I have a particular feeling about this terroir — perhaps because my father was born there…

    I was expecting a powerful wine with plenty of body and as tannic as you like! In short, the “Saint-Estèphe” trademark!

    And then, as if by magic, you come across a wine of unsuspected balance. A soft yet pronounced nose, but an elegant robe. On the palate, this wine tenderly caresses you. And there go my preconceptions, blown to pieces.

    Once all that was set aside, I had to pour another glass and start again from the beginning — and there, this wine’s balance will trap you, and the length on the palate is present and subtle. It will take a lot of willpower to share it with the other guests around the table.

    This 2018 is already good to drink, but with a lot of perseverance you can also wait a few years to be surprised all over again.

    At around €25, it will go with a fine piece of meat….

  • Côte-Rôtie and Its Joys…

    Côte-Rôtie and Its Joys…

    Here’s a Côte-Rôtie that left me anything but indifferent! Philippe Pacalet.

    A little history:

    In the 19th century, phylloxera devastated the vineyards of France, including that of Côte-Rôtie. The vines were destroyed and had to be replanted, which took several decades. The region’s winegrowers persevered, however, and managed to bring this vineyard back to life.

    In the 20th century, winemakers such as Marius Gentaz and Marcel Guigal — I’ll tell you about him in a future post — helped build the reputation of Côte-Rôtie by producing exceptional wines. Today, the Côte-Rôtie vineyard is considered one of the most prestigious in France and in the world, and the wines produced there are highly prized by connoisseurs.

    Back to this Côte-Rôtie by Philippe Pacalet:

    It’s a red wine produced in the Rhône Valley wine region, in France. It’s made from Syrah and Viognier grapes, the latter added in small quantity to bring a touch of floral aromas.

    Its structure is more complex than it seems. A very welcome and very pleasant length on the palate. A fragrant, typical nose right from opening. The Syrah grapes that make it up aren’t my favourites, but here, I admit it, I’m won over.

    It’s elegant, complex and marked by spice — in short, everything I love in a wine. Young or old, you’ll enjoy it at any age!

    At a tasting among friends, I was astonished to see it win everyone over. Ladies and gentlemen alike all enjoyed it.

    If Côte-Rôtie isn’t to your taste, you’ll also find exceptional Pommard or Nuits-Saint-Georges wines at this house. Philippe Pacalet is a renowned winemaker known for his respectful approach to nature and his commitment to biodynamics. The grapes used for the Côte-Rôtie are grown organically and biodynamically, which means they’re grown without the use of chemicals and using environmentally friendly farming methods.

    That said, I’ll grant you its price matches the brew: it will be hard to find below €80 — but it’s a “must-have”!