“Crozes-Hermitage is one of the most respected appellations of the Rhône Valley, offering wines of great depth, with aromas of black fruit, spice and liquorice.” – Decanter
From the very start of this little adventure, I set myself a rule of conduct. To write honest articles that look like me, with no fuss — both about wines I’ve enjoyed and about those I haven’t.
During the first months of writing and tasting, I concentrated mainly on safe bets that I know well and have a handle on; I felt confident and the articles came easily, one after another.
After that period of confidence, I opened up and decided to venture into grape varieties and countries unknown to my palate. Some wonderful encounters, and tastings that stay with you.
After a quick search, I decide to taste a white Guigal! E. Guigal — I’d announced it in a previous post: I’m a fan of this house and its production. We’re going for a Crozes-Hermitage; lovely reviews of this wine scroll across my screen and help make up my mind.
Right, let’s taste!
A lovely pale, mineral robe — astonishing purity. A fruity, fresh, pleasant nose… I amuse myself picking out citrus with scents of peach and mango.
In we go! Very mineral from the outset, almost dry but fresh; it’s soft, agreeable — and then the wood quickly asserts itself and there it turns. My palate isn’t used to it: the power of that aroma makes me think of liquorice. That flavour will dominate right through to the end.
I have to admit this tasting threw me. It’s a subtle balance, and I struggle to hold on to a feeling of satisfaction.
I hesitated for a long time before writing this article; as I’ve said before, I’m a fan of the Guigals. It’s a peculiar feeling, something like disappointment.
But there it is…
I don’t regret this tasting; I even have a particular memory of it that has stayed with me. As I often say to people who have me taste wine, I try to be fair most of the time — these wines are always lovely discoveries. It’s rare, but from time to time I explain (in nice words, all the same) that I didn’t entirely enjoy a wine; I try to be precise and to bring out the positive points as well as those I liked less. This wine falls into that category.
So I’m giving it a new WordPress category, created for the occasion: “unsettling”.
But I’ll let you be the judge!
Don’t worry, this won’t stop me being a fan and holding E. Guigal’s production in high respect. I fully intend to give Crozes-Hermitage another chance and try a different vintage.
Go on! Step out of your comfort zone, because every tasting is an adventure!
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